Japanese universe of gyotaku inspires new collection of Luís Buchinho

Luís Buchinho presented today at the Paris Fashion Week his new collection inspired by the Japanese prints Gyotaku which he describes as “very slender, with a fast movement and an aquatic texture”.

The Gyotaku prints – a traditional Japanese method that fishermen used to reproduce the fish they captured – were the pretext for the breeder to test the possibilities of fabric and imagination.

Luís Buchinho explained to Lusa that in the mid-19th century Gyotaku printing, fishermen put paint on a fish, wadded rice paper and had the almost photographic impression of their fishing.

It was this effect that he wanted to obtain in the graphics of his collection, either through prints, with a direct allusion to the ‘Gyotaku’, or through this’ almost decal process that exists when one picks up a fish and inserts a leaf on top, to get that picture. ”

“I did this textile treatment in various fabrics. There were fabrics that were maneuvered by folds or pleats and then suffered a decal of a sheet of foil that gave them the completely different effect and very close to the textures that we can literally find in fish, “he said.

Luís Buchinho also performed skin-stamping experiments on bases of jersey, rib and lace fabrics and obtained metallic-like effects similar to fish scales. Afterwards, the morphology of the fish themselves helped the overlapping construction of coats and jackets.

“It is a collection that wants to be very slender, with a fast movement, with an aquatic texture transmitted by both the colors, the materials used and the transformations that the tissues suffered,” he added.

In the passerelle of the University of Paris Descartes, there were skirts with Gyotaku prints, jersey dresses combined with pleated tops and belts of wavy forms, high waist trousers with contrasting stripes and pressure springs on the lateral carcasses.

Playing with transparencies, opacities and textures, Buchinho designed trousers and dresses with contrasting cotton closures, ‘ribbons’ with colored ribbons, ‘ribs’ with ‘foile’ at the hem, neckline and waist and details in perforated net.

The palette was dominated by blue, black and white, with “light bulbs” given by mauve, fuchsia, red and purple shades, but also thanks to the metallic tones, with effects of copper, lacquer and lead and thanks to the silver glints suggesting the “wet glitter of the marine fauna”.

“It’s a line that has a slightly sporty influence, in fact. There’s a mix of elements a little more couture with elements linked to a more sportswear trend and a slim and slender silhouette almost in its entirety with shapes quite close to the body, shapes that greatly accentuate the female figure in a very elegant way and with an effect between the casual and the sophisticated, “he said.

A frequent presence at Paris Fashion Week, the designer also considered that “Paris continues to be the place where most of the major trends are launched and where the signatures of the fashion of author are more and more creased.”

This Wednesday, the Paris Fashion Week was also marked by the debut of the only Portuguese brand in the official calendar, Marques’Almeida, and by the parade of Diogo Miranda, at the University of Paris Descartes.

On Tuesday, the Portuguese participation in Paris Fashion Week also featured the presentation of the new Fatima Lopes collection.

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