A bridge between past and future, the Portuguese designer’s new collection will feature references to cultural relationships, climate change, European tradition, and global conflicts.
“Clothing is a way for everyone to relate to the world they live in,” says Tony Miranda as he prepares the pieces for his collection, which will be shown in September. “I will continue to contribute to ensuring this relationship has a more present urban aesthetic.”
A “simple collection” of 80 styles for men and women, yet artistically “very creative” and featuring all the finer points of haute couture, will be presented by Tony Miranda in Lisbon on September 11th. “Herança Couture” is the name of the collection in which the Portuguese designer will propose a dialogue between the years 2025 and 2026 with the tradition of European fashion, which cultivates elegance in everyday urban life.
“These are very urban clothes, designed for work or leisure environments, also with styles designed for parties where elegance and glamour reign,” says Tony Miranda as he finalises his creations and perfects them for the models who will walk the runway wearing them. “It’s my homage to Paris, where I lived and worked for so many years, but also to Lisbon, where I serve most of my clients, which is becoming a more cosmopolitan and vibrant city with each passing year.”
The studio in his “Tony Miranda” building on Avenida da Liberdade, as well as the hotel the couturier opened in 2022 within the same block, are excellent vantage points for locals and foreigners who experience his styles in the Portuguese capital. The presentation of the “Herança Couture” collection will take place in the garden of TM Luxury Apartments, Tony Miranda’s fashion tourism unit in downtown Lisbon.
“My “Herança Couture” collection is an exercise in reverence for learning, for the craftsmanship created in the atelier, for the tradition of European haute couture, for the creative capacity of fashion through form, knowledge of materials, and storytelling textures,” says Tony Miranda. According to the couturier, part of this new collection was developed based on his autobiography, “Metade de mim,” published by Guerra & Paz in 2023, a life story driven by the legacy of fashion, the knowledge of his mother, “a great seamstress,” and the skilful craftsmanship of his father, a “bottier” artisan.
Tony Miranda began his career in Paris at Maison Joseph Camps, a master of French haute couture, and was creative director of the house of Ted Lapidus. He later opened his first boutique and atelier in Paris at 61 bis Av. Suffrem and, in the 1980s, established himself at 5 Rue Cambon, in the fashion district. He returned to Portugal and opened a studio and store in Guimarães, in the historic centre, later opening a store in Porto. In the late 1990s, he also established a studio and store on Avenida da Liberdade in Lisbon.
Dresses that enhance the female body
Tony Miranda’s new collection is defined by him as “an explosion of sensations” and “a feeling of constant passion.” The apparent “simplicity” of the designs incorporates the finest materials, the careful selection of fabrics, and hundreds of hours of work, in which the cut, the “moulage” of the models, and the meticulous inclusion of refined details make all the difference. Black and white will be prominent, as is customary in his shows. In the women’s pieces, blue, yellow, green, red, and pink will be prominent hues. The dresses will feature flowing silks, intense crepes, distinctive laces, taffetas, and dry organzas, where the interplay of matte and shiny will be noticeable. There will also be damasks, velvets, prints with fresh effects, and plenty of flowers.
“What I love most is highlighting a woman’s body,” says Tony Miranda, whether in clothing for professional use or other occasions. “I want the clothes I create to inspire dreams, to make people fantasise,” confesses the couturier. “You’ll see in the show how this collection, while very urban, is filled with sophisticated and irreverent pieces.”
Flamboyant men at parties, casual at work
In menswear, grey, blue, and pink will alternate with black. There will be coats with very casual, bold prints, alongside classics featuring solids, fine stripes, and herringbone. “I try to interpret the spirit of the times, in which the same man can wear exuberant coats at parties or events, and then blazers with jeans and a shirt, which could be silk, while working,” explains Tony Miranda. “Or even more classic suits, a sharp suit, blue and striped, with exquisite details.” In addition to cool wool fabrics, velvets, and crepes, there will also be natural silks, brocades, and some lace.
A bridge between past and future, the pieces in the “Herança Couture” collection will reference cultural relationships, “a topic that has gained great political relevance in our country this year,” says Tony Miranda. Climate change, urban lifestyles, European developments, and global conflicts will also be present in this show, which will liven up Lisbon at the beginning of September. “Clothing is a way for each person to relate to the world,” observes the couturier. “For my part, I will continue to contribute to ensuring that this relationship has a more active and present aesthetic and cultural dimension.”
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